The first place we came to was a very basic lodge where we fancied a cup of tea after an hour's walk. The only problem was that the owner and his friend were blind drunk on rhaksi (millet spirit ) at 7am. We ended up having to give them a hand and bought some biscuits to keep us going. After another hour the forest gave way to pine and open pastures. By 9.30 we had got to Dobato and had some much needed breakfast.
We shared an omelette and a fried chapati and jam ( nicer than it sounds). The next stop was Bayeli (3,200metres) at about 11am where most people stop for the day. We pressed on which meant a drop of 800 metres and a climb to Dhan Charka where we were told we should stay. Instead we had lunch and decided to press on for the 3 hour climb to Khopra Danda. We should really have taken more note of the spots of rain at lunch. After about 20 minutes of walking it had started to rain this turned to hail with associated thunder and lightning. Eventually it was snowing. We made it up in record time at just over 2 hours but were frozen if not a little hyperthermic.
The hut was packed and there was no room for us but we stripped off nevertheless and got in front of the very warm fire where some lovely Italians made room for us. We dried out, warmed up and had some food plus good conversations before bedding down for a rough night in the dining room with the porters.
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